Blog of the Little Bonsai

Personal Blog of Steve Baumber

It's time to start trekking! Pokhara is to Kathmandu, what Canmore is to Calgary. Except that it doesn't take seven hours to go from Calgary to Canmore! We managed a bus from Kathmandu yesterday and had an enjoyable, winding trip out of the Kathmandu vally to Pokhara. The city is much more realxed than Kathmandu, situated along the second largest lake in the country, with the Annapurna mountain range peeking over the hills that surround the city. I was going to say looming, but sparkling snowcapped mountains that go straight up just behind hills don't really loom, they peek. Or stare. Or cooly assess. But they definitely don't loom - that would suggest they have an interest in affecting you, but we're pretty insignificant in their 5,000m+ world. Pokhara has been the first real rest of our trip - we've had leisurely walks around the town and today spent some time paddling around the lake in a rented boat, shared a bottle of Everest beer and snapped photos. I'm pretty sure that all of the pictures taken of the "view from Pokhara" are taken from a little boat on the lake - definitely the best view of the mountains. Rosemary made herself a minor celebrity with a group of kids this morning playing on a swing. She brought out the camera, and they started posing, and then crowding around her to see the picture in the viewer on the camera. How dissapointed they would be if we were stil using the old SLR! It was funny to watch her in the midst of a cluster of heads staring intently at the camera. Tomorrow we begin our trek, probably for 21 days, around the Annapurna curcuit. We are looking forward to it, but so far Nepal has been an amazing experience. I thought that the mountains would be the pinnacle (ha ha) but so far the towns and people have been exceptional. Will update again in a few weeks... P.S. I've been trying to post photos, but the connection speeds here in Nepal make it difficult, and Blogger's cranky as well. Will do my best to get some shots up soon. posted by Steve @ 5:01 AM	10.16.2005
The flight to Dehli went fine, with more movie watching and airline-food-eating. The smoky aroma of Dehli filtered through the cabin as we landed, and we were soon queing at immigration. After that and capturing our bags we headed to the information desk to find out about the dormitory rooms at the airport. Nobody knew what the hell we were talking about, but we met a Bangladeshi man who was looking for the same arrangement. After wandering around the outside of the airport for a good half hour in the sultry Dehli night, we found a fellow who led us through dark side roads, past the requisite group of cattle lowing for the evening in the dust, to the dormitory building, a good walk from the terminal. The rooms were, well, less than exceptional, so the three of us opted for the Airport Hotel by the Domestic terminal. After a hair-raising cab ride to the hotel, we checked in and tried to settle in at midnight. "Hotel" is of course a strong word - concrete bunker with little rooms was a more apt description, but at least the cockroaches were the little guys. I hate them big Australian ones... Happy to leave and catch our flight to Kathmandu, here we are! It was a true breath of fresh air after our night in Dehli, and a sunny afternoon greeted us when we got off the plane. Kathmandu has crowded medieval streets filled with people, motorbikes, trishaws and cars. There is an overabundane of signage, and laneways and allyways that lead to corners and stupas, and before you know it you're on your way to the "monkey temple" (wherever that is). The city nestles in a valley surrounded by steep green hills and mountains with terraced sides. From the balcony of the room we have been staying in we overlook the city, and can watch kids flying kites from the rooftops - it's quite idyllic. We are heading to Pokhara tomorrow, and so will begin the trekking portion of the trip. Still, Kathmandu has a certain charm despite the chorus of dogs serenading you to sleep, and we'll be glad to come back for a better look after the trekking. posted by Steve @ 2:01 AM	10.14.2005
The Singapore Airport has free local calling and free internet. We're thinking of spending a couple of months here... The last day in London was a little hectic as it was a beautiful fall day, and Trit and I decided that it was only fitting to film a short movie. We'll probably meet up with him in Eastern Europe next year to get a copy, so he has a good amount of time to fire up Adobe Premiere and bleep out all the swearing (who says I can do it in one take?) Rosemary operated as both the sound technician and the official clock-watcher so we managed to sprint to the tube just in time for the roll out to Heathrow. Leaving London behind was bittersweet as it is an amazing place - everywhere you turn there was something to see for free. The day before we had gone to the Tate Modern Art gallery and wandered through a great portion of town near London Bridge with little allies and nooks suitable for being a shady character on a foggy London night. Close to Brewery Wharf was the original "Clink" , the old religious prison that gave all others the slang name. So much more to see, but alas the trekking season does not wait for dilly-dallying. The flight to Singapore was long and sleepless, but with movies-on-demand it was a good chance to catch up on some missed media. Unfortunately the jet lag has finally allowed the cold I was staving off during the stress fest of quiting and moving in Vancouver to set up shop in my throat and lungs. Should make the hiking in the Annapurna ohhhhhh sooo much fuuunnn. Last night was no fun, but I'm hoping that tonight will be better. Singapore is "Asia Lite", clean, safe and easy to get around. Rosemary explored Chinatown this morning while I tried to sleep, and (Buddha bless her) she brought me roti and curry for breakfast. She's a keeper! We plan on touring around Singapore more on the next stop over. Now we fly to Dehli, stay a night in an airport comfort room (we hope) and then fly to Kathmandu. That's when the real trip starts, but the old life seems to fade with each morning. posted by Steve @ 2:09 AM	10.12.2005
Ah, the things we've seen. The 3/4-sized T-Rex at the Natural History Museum, wandered along the South Bank of the Thames, had a curry in Brick Lane, stood in front of the "Lady of Shallot" (painted by John William Waterhouse), wandered through St. James Park to Buckingham Palace where what's 'er name lives, and, yes, had real English beer in a real English pub. We've pretty much used up London wouldn't you say? One and a half days to the long flight to Singapore-Delhi-Kathmandu and ahhhh, all the things we haven't seen! Who said we left our high-paced lifestyle behind. Then again, when was the last time you hopped on a double-decker bus and didn't really care which way it was going? posted by Steve @ 4:45 PM	10.08.2005
Tristram and Rosemary in his Harry Potteresque room under the stairs at 54 Delancy Street. Camden Town, with it's gothic clothing stores and astrology shops, is remarkabley similar to Daigon Alley as well. Trit assures me that the lightening bolt scar on his forehead is pure coincidence... Okay, okay, don't get too used to this blog being up-to-date, but there's a computer in the bedroom so smoke 'em if you got 'em. Why fight the jet lag when you can roll around in it, so we had a lovely sleep-in today until 12 noon. Anybody working out there may choke on their Cheerios, but I doubt I'll feel any guilt. We made up for our lolling by tramping through Hampstead Heath, sizing up the art at Kenwood House, noshing with the posh folks on Highgate Hill, and spent the evening wandering past the busy environs of the West End and a looming statue of Oliver Cromwell at the parliment building (and yes I quoted lyrics from "Young Ned of the Hill"). Rosemary was heard to say "I don't even feel like shopping" whilst on Oxford Street, but eyed the Clark's shoe store a little too closely. I will have to check her pack before Nepal... Trit took us to a pub called the Sanctuary for a bite to eat and then home again to try and get the sleeping schedule back on track. posted by Steve @ 2:50 PM	10.06.2005
Just in case you've forgotten us, here's a picture sent to us by Anita from our August road trip. The countdown is over. To bastardize SOTW, "We arrived in London and London was cold. We've seen all the bars along Charring Cross Road." We successfully braved the bumpy flight over the water and landed in Heathrow at 6:30am this morning,and made our way to Camden Town where my cousin Tristram (Trit) is living. After a fortifying cup of tea and a hearty bowl of honey-nut Corn Flakes we dropped our bags off and headed out, determined to defeat the spectre of jet lag hanging over us. After walking through Picadilly Square, Soho, and the West End, Trafalgar Square, and an hour in the National Gallery, jet lag settled onto us like a smelly, wet towel. We were the Walking Stupid, staring at the Rubenesque women in Ruben's paintings, and blearily trying to see the delicate brush work of Rembrandt. We came back to the flat and crashed for two hours, and then explored Regent Park, Primrose Hill and Camden Town with Trit. After a hearty home-cooked meal, more tea and a brief round of emailing, it's now bed time and we're successfully wide awake. Who says you can't beat jet lag? Perhaps if I count sheep... The trip is fully underway. Thanks to everyone who helped us pack, move, threw parties for us, picked us up at the ferry terminal (smooches to Denton), and delivered us to the airport (thanks Jessie!). May the road rise to meet us and the wind be at our backs. posted by Steve @ 1:25 PM	10.05.2005
Good God we fly out tomorrow! After a cold, wet, rainy, windy motorbike ride (for me anyway) we arrived at Lee's place in Sechelt (Rosemary' grandmother's). Last minute stuff now - car needs an oil change and gets parked, motorbike is stored, last chance for internet and phone, back to Vancouver tonight for the farwell gathering and so long see ya later onto the plane. Dave and Shannon have a lovely new girl, as do Chris and Rhea! Have been trying to send a bulk email to everybody, but Telus webmail seems to hate sending bulk emails. Have resorted to doing it in batches and I think I got everyone. If I missed someone, send them the message or link to the Blog with my apologies. One day and counting... posted by Steve @ 10:03 AM	10.03.2005